Seoul in a Day; Tosokchon, Gyeongbokgung Palace, Tongin, Insadong

Korea 2016 Day 2

Breakfast at Tosokchon

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Lunch at Tongin

Insadong and Ssamziegil

A gorgeous day in late-autumn Korea

Breakfast at Tosokchon

Nothing starts off a tourist day in Korea better than a late breakfast of speciality cuisine. Tosokchon, a famous restaurant with a seating capacity of over 400, offers samgyetang, a dish consisting of a whole young chicken stuffed with rice and spices and served in a warm ginseng soup. The ginseng used is thought to prevent illness, but also provides a unique herbal flavour that is considered an acquired taste. Nonetheless, a foodie family means that (almost) no food is off-limits, and the convenient opening hour of 10am meant a nice sleep-in and a guaranteed hearty breakfast.

Rather a shoddy picture of an unassuming entrance

We got a table immediately, seated in one of many small dining halls at low tables with cushions. Modern chair-seated tables are also available, but we were not being choosy. Kimchi and a radish pickle were provided in clay jars with tongs for one to serve themselves with. We opted for two chickens between the five of us, one of which was their original speciality dish, and the other, a silky fowl (black chicken) in a more expensive soup (the reason for which we could not tell), as well as haemul pajeon (seafood and chive pancake).

Ordinary chicken (left) and silky fowl (right) in a ginseng soup.

Dried ginseng was provided in a small vial to add to the soup to taste, as well as a shot of insamju (ginseng wine). Both I would recommend consuming in modesty, because as mentioned, the flavour may not be agreeable with some people. To say the meal was interesting does not quite portray it right. The samgyetang is thick in texture, almost like a ramen broth, though light in flavour. Though the combination of inclusions in the chicken itself was not particularly to my taste, it was an enjoyable dish that is worth a try for those with an open mind and a keenness for new foods.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Located right at the exit of Gyeongbokgung Station and only 10 minutes' walk from Tosokchon, it was a simple decision to visit this landmark together. Welcomed by costumed guards at the gate, the crowds are often dotted with girls who have hired traditional Korean hanbok gowns from various nearby stores, creating a historical feeling as you enter the grounds.

Statues that guard the gates of Gyeongbokgung

A girl dressed in traditional hanbok makes her way to the entrance

Gyeongbokgung is a palace spanning an enormous amount of land, sectioned off into pavilions and courts. Though much of the information supplied on the plaques are in Korean, it doesn't take much to appreciate the serenity exploring the parks, ponds, and the rich architecture. The high walls of the gates almost entirely separate the historical grounds from sight of the surrounding buildings, encapsulating the palace in its own vacuum of history.

Only a small snippet of the palace grounds

The famous Geunjeongjeon Hall

Hyangwonjeong Pavilion

Alongside the fanfare of twice-daily guard changes at the main palace gates, a small fee of ₩3,000 is good value for an attraction that radiates history and is steeped in breathtaking sights.

One of the periodic guard changes: a show in itself just within the second inner gate.

While it is visible from the outside, it is nowhere near as stunning as watching from within the gates. Accompanied by music and march, it's highly recommended as an event to catch if you're there at the time.

Lunch at Tongin

Back in the direction of Tosokchon is a famous street known for their dosirak - Korean lunchboxes. A tight alley packed with a variety of shops, a coin stand halfway down will sell you an empty lunchbox for ₩5,000 alongside ten coins which can be used as tokens to purchase side dishes from the surrounding stalls. Upstairs from the coin stand are a set of tightly-packed dining rooms, where rice, soups, and drinks are sold and utensils provided free of charge for eating. Keep in mind that the capacity of these rooms are small, so getting seats may be difficult during peak lunch hours.

A selection of ddeokbokki spicy rice cakes and other side dishes

Seasoned vegetable side dishes

Seasoned side dishes

The participating stands display placards, or if one is in doubt, holding up the coins would get a pretty definitive response. A good choice is always ddeokbokki rice cakes and seasoned fried chicken. There wasn't a stand that was so outstanding that I feel compelled to direct traffic towards them specifically. Anything that catches your fancy will likely be a tasty feed, and any coins leftover can be kept as souvenirs.

Relatively unhealthy, but I'm all for the rich salty dishes on display.

Insadong

Located about 15 minutes' walk from Gyeongbokgung Palace, Insadong is a shopping street hosting stores that make for excellent souvenir shopping. With options ranging from typical magnets and keychains to traditional clothing, you can find everything from cheap basic trinkets to traditional garments, spanning all price ranges and quality. As expected, there are also many restaurants and cafes dotted amongst the area, and several food stands that open closer to the evening.

A vendor selling gyeran bbang egg bread and red bean pancakes 

One of many sock vendors, of which most socks sell for a measly ₩1,000

A souvenir shop on Insadong

Girls wander Insadong in their hanbok gowns

As a tourist area, there is no shortage of things to attract attention. The making of fresh Dragon's Beard candy, an entertaining and incredible show, is a demonstration of mathematics and commentary which the vendors can recite in various languages, as fermented honey is stretched to a sheet of fine strands and used to wrap crushed nuts; one will always be offered as a sample. Keep in mind that fresh is best; after only a couple of days even sealed in the packaging, they can become stale fairly fast.

Literally thousands of fine strands of fermented honey

Amongst the stores in Insadong is Ssamziegil, a multi-storey wheelchair-friendly building whose shopping involves more novelties such as hand-made coin-purses and merchandise emblazoned with familiar and more obscure mascots alike in a collection of stores that appear to cater to the adolescent and young-adult consumers. Inevitably there is food, though in my personal encounters the offerings focus more on the avant-garde experience of unconventional themes rather than the sensory attributes of the food itself. Nonetheless, it makes for good photos and a bit of a laugh.

The view from the top of Ssamziegil

Poop pancakes... not particularly special but novel nonetheless